Biska Jatra

Biska Jatra also known as Bisket Jatra is one of the famous festival / jatra celebrated in Bhaktapur city. Biska Jatra is also celebrated in other places with Newari community like Thimi, Tokha etc but in Bhaktapur it is a special one. It is nine days and eight nights festival that witnesses huge local participants along with thousands of visitors. Very few people know that this festival is also referred as a festival that is celebrated two years, two months and two days. I will explain it in this article later.

Bhailakha at Nyatapola

Biska Jatra starts from last 4th day of month Chaitra and ends on 5th of Baisakh according to Bikram Sambat Calendar. In simple, if month Chaitra has 30 days, then Biska Jatra starts at 27th and if it has 31 days, Biska Jatra starts at 28th day of Chaitra. Biska Jatra involves pulling of chariots like tug of war from two sides, erecting around 55 feet long Yo:sing (wooden pole) and worshipping them and other deities.

Biska Jatra commences after a special Tantric ritual in the Bhairav temple in Taumadhi Tole in Bhaktapur. God Bhairav is placed in three storeyed large chariot known as "Bhailakha" in local tongue and Goddess Bhadrakali is placed in two storeyed small chariot known as "Nakinjukhacha" in local tongue. God Bir Betal also sits in Bhailakha. Both chariots are then pulled by crowds to take them to designated place.

Biska Jatra is said to be started by Malla King of Bhaktapur - Jagajyoti Malla around 3-4 centuries ago. He was fascinated by myth and folklore, and it was due to a particularly intriguing myth that Biska Jatra was established as an annual event. Biska Jatra was originally called "Bisyaku Jatra". In Newari, "bi" means snake and "syaku" means slaughter/kill) which reveals the myth of slaughter of snakes.

Myths behind Biska Jatra

There is a myth that this celebration is the "festival after the death of the serpent". According to the myth, once there was a beautiful princess but it was unfortunate that anyone who marry her, found dead the next day. It's cause remained mystery to everyone until once young man risked marrying her despite knowing the result. His elderly mother forbade him from doing so, but then another old lady offered some advice to the young lad for his safety.

After the wedding, as soon as they lay in bed, the princess started snoring softly, having fallen asleep. The young man, following the old lady’s advice, remain awake. According to the old lady's advice, he must not sleep no matter what and stay alert with a sword with him. All seemed normal for quite some time. Then, suddenly, two thread-like things gradually came out of the princesses’ nostrils which took form of snakes, but before they could grow further, he picked up his sword and wasted no time slaughtering those two snakes. In the morning, while everyone thought the man to be death as all other man previosly found that man to be alive. Later everyone knew about the reason of the death which were killed by the brave lad. Later, it was known that the other old lady who adviced the man was Goddess Bhadrakali. So, during Biska Jatra, one of two main chariots is of Bhadrakali.

So, King Malla then started Biska Jatra as a celebration of victory over the serpents. Huge wooden pole (Yo:sing) is erected with two 'halin pata', which symbolize the two serpents, are tighten in the two arms of Yo:sing. In local tongue, it is called "Yosing dhyo thanegu". Yo:sing is erected in the new year eve of Bikram Sambat year that is last day of month Chaitra. Next day people from all around come to visit the place and worship Yo:sing Dhyo (refered as God). In the evening of same day which is 1st day of year and 1st of month Baisakh, yo sing is crashed down which is called "Yo:sing Dhyo kothegu" in local tongue.

It is said that the original and main event of Biska Jatra was these two events only happening in two days. These two days are days of two months - Chaitra and Baisakh and two days of 2 different years. So Biska Jatra is referred as a festival that is celebrated two years, two months and two days as mentioned above.

Myth of God Bhairav

For the advice of Goddess Bhadrakali to slaughter the serpents, Bhadrakali was also worshipped during Biska Jatra placing here in a chariot. Bhadrakali is believed to Kashi’s Shiva’s wife. Bhairav is one of the form of Shiva. When his wife did not return, Bhairav looked for her and found that she was being worshipped in Bhaktapur. He took human form and watched the ceremony. He seemed taller than most people with huge head and different from other people in the crowd. Noticing this, one of the tantriks tried to find out reality and came to know that it was Bhairav in their midst. Tantrik wanted to catch the deity. Knowing this God Bhairav slowly vanish in the ground but before completely vanishing, trantrik grabbed a weapon and cut God Bhairav's head which is remained to be vanished. His head was later taken to Taumadhi and established in a temple later known as temple of Bhairav which remains till date. There are few places from Yosingkhel to Taumadhi where we can find stones worshipped as God Bhairav. It is said that in these places blood from the head of Bhairav dropped while taking to the temple.

Such act against Bhairav was supposed to be a crime, so to please the deity, the citizens started the chariot pulling ceremony of Bhairav during Biska Jatra.

So this is how today's Biska Jatra is supposed to be started.

Timeline of Biska Jatra

First Day

First day is called "Dyo Kwayo Bijyayegu" which means God comes down. Bhairav and Bhadrakali are worshiped in their respective chariots in Taumadhi Square in Bhaktapur amid various special tantric rituals. The same evening both chariots are pulled by hundreds of people as a tug of war between the upper(Thane) and lower(Kone) part of Taumadhi Square. As per the ritual, chariots are pulled south from Taumadi Square. Bhailakha known as Bhairav's chariot is taken to Gahiti which is around 100 meters south from Taumadhi.

Second and Third Day

Locals visit the chariot and offer their prayers, while a particular group take care of chariots and performs various rituals.

Fourth Day

The fourth day is the last day of the year when the major event of Bisket Jatra takes place. Bhailakha is pulled towards Yo:singkhel via Kha:laa where Yo:sing will be erected. In local tongue 'Kha' means chariot and 'Laa' means road which refers as road of chariot.

This day two separate Yo:sing are erected in two different areas of Bhaktapur; one without hands known as "Lhyamaru Yo:sing" in the Pottery square around noon and another with two extended hands in Yo:singKhel in the evening.

Thousands of people gather around to witness this unique celebration. Event in fourth day is completed as soon as Yo:sing is erected.

Fifth Day

Fifth day is the 1st day of year. People from different places come to witness Yo:sing dhyo and worship the deities. The same day evening, Yo:singdhyo is crashed down by hundreds of men. After this, Bhailakha is then pulled towards Ga:hiti. After Bhailakh is placed in its designated place in Ga:hiti, two chariots - Bhailakha and Nakinjukhacha are clashed with each other referring as fight between husband and wife. It is called Kha:Lwakegu. Nakinjukhacha is then taken to her mother's home area.

Sixth Day

There is no significant events in the sixth day.

Seventh Day

On the seventh day of Biska Jatra, the festival is celebrated worshipping God and Goddess in different areas. Friends, family, and relatives come together to celebrate the festival and have a special feast too. Various God and Goddess of different places are taken out from their home for worshipping.

Eighth Day

In eighth Day, people wear traditional dresses and come in the street and visit the whole city worshipping all the God and Goddess which are taken outside their home. They also offer food items like fruits and sweets to God and Goddess. The whole ambiance gets filled with joy as traditional music and dance starts taking place. This day is also known as 'Dhyo Swoganbigu'.

The Last Day

In last day of Biska Jatra the 'Lhyamaru Yo:sing' in Pottery Square is crashed down. This day is called "Dhyo Tha Bijyayegu" meaning 'God now returns to his own sacred home'. In the evening chariot is pulled towards an upward direction to Taumadhi. Biska Jatra is ended when chariot is taken to designated place in Taumadhi square. God and Goddess from the chariot are then taken to respective home of God and Goddess.

Other related Jatras

Not only in Bhaktapur, Biska Jatra is celebrated in other places also with different events. In Thimi, people celebrate Sindur (vermilion) Jatra in 2nd of Bhaisakh. In Bode, there is special tongue piercing ceremony. One resident spends the whole day with an iron spike piercing his tongue and roams the city by carrying multiple fiery torches on his shoulder. Juju Bhai Shrestha is the most renowned tongue piercer town.

Other places like Tokha also celebrate Biska Jatra in its own way.