Yenya Punhi | Indra Jatra in Bhaktapur

Indra Jatra, most commonly known as Yenya in Nepal Bhasa is the biggest religious street festival in Kathmandu, Nepal. Ye means "Kathmandu" and Ya means "celebration", together it means "celebration inside Kathmandu" in Nepal Bhasa. It is also one of the major festivals celebrated in Bhaktapur which has different celebration events with different local folk stories from that of Kathmandu.

Pulukisi in Taumadhi

Indra Jatra was started by King Gunakamadeva to commemorate the founding of Kathmandu city in the 10th century. The celebrations are held according to the lunar calendar, so the dates are changeable. This year (2020), the festival takes place from 30th August to 6th September.

Indra Jatra is celebrated from the twelfth day of the waxing moon to the fourth day of the following waning moon in the month of Bhadra as per the lunar calendar. It is celebrated in all three districts of the Kathmandu Valley including Kavre and Dolakha and other places with Newar settlements.

Some of the important events that occurrs in Bhaktapur during Indra Jatra are Yama dya (Yamacha) thanigu, Indrayani Jatra, Yamata, Mupatra, and Pulu kisi Haigu.

Tale about Yenya Punhi

The story of Indra Jatra in Bhaktapur is different from the story of Kathmandu. It is said that Indra's mother sent Indra to get some white flowers of a special kind called 'Parijat' from the earth. It is said that Indra got caught on the day of 'Ganesh Chaturthi' when people celebrate Chotha: Puja. There is also a story of this day that, a thief stealing this day will get caught.

People then capture Indra and tie in a pole so that everyone can see the thief. Indra's mother, not knowing where Indra was, sent Indra's vehicle, an elephant, to earth to find him. The elephant found Indra and reported his whereabouts to Indra's mother, who came to earth to rescue him. People then release Indra after his mother came to earth.

Day 1:

The twelfth day from the new moon is the beginning of the Indra Jatra and is called "Yama Dya:(Yamacha) Thanigu" in Bhaktapur which means the erecting of the Yama God. People also believe it as a form of Indra. In many places in Bhaktapur, small wooden poles are erected with Yama God in it. These are left erected for an entire eight-day period. People who tie 'Janai' in the wrist during Janai Purnima also called 'Gunhi Punhi' takes Janai from their hand and tie in the pole on this day.

Yama dya at Chasukhel

Day 3:

On the fourteenth day from the new moon, Bhaktapur celebrates Indrayani Jatra. Goddess Indrayani is taken from her Goddess home in Khauma, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, and carried in a chariot around Bhaktapur city followed by a huge number of local peoples. Chariot is then carried up to Siddhapokhari, the largest pond in Bhaktapur also known as Ta: Pukhu. Goddess Indrayani is kept there for the whole night since there will be huge local gatherings to worship the next day.

Indrayeni at Khauma

Day 4:

Siddha Pokhari at Yenya Punhi night

This day is full moon day hence known as Yenya Punhi. Punhi means full moon in the local tongue. People from Bhaktapur visit Siddhapokhari this day from morning. People take a bath in this pong and worship Goddess Indrayeni. Later in the evening, Goddess Indrayani is returned to her Goddess home hence completing a cycle in Bhaktapur city.

Day 6:

On the second day from the full moon a special event of 'Mu Patra' is started and ends at the end of Yenya. A specific person is chosen to represent himself as "Mu Patra" and two other persons for "Dhichas" as the assistant of Mu Patra. Mu Patra wears a metal crown and dresses in the old Malla-period Moghul-style royal costume. During these three days, he makes a round of Bhaktapur and visits those places where Yama Dya is erected on the first day. Mu Patra with his Dhichas circles the pole three times and hit it with the sword. Legend tells that Mu Patra is the demon enemy of Indra.

There is also another event to watch on this day. From this day to the last day, a set of three torches called 'Ya matta' are carried around the city on a long stick by a member of the Sa:mi caste. People try to see the lights, a view that is said enables them to enter heaven. This reflects the Indra Jatra's legend's theme of the following of Indra and his mother into their heaven.

Yamata

Day 7:

On the third day from the full moon, there is a small local Jatra, Chuma Gandya: (Ganesh) Jatra.

Day 8:

The fourth day from the full moon is the last day of the Indra Jatra. This day is popular for 'Pulukisi'. Kisi in the local tongue means elephant in English. Pulukisi is the main attraction of this day. Besides this, another key event is 'Masan/Pulu Bhailadya Jatra'.

Pulu Bhailadyo

Masan means cremation ground in the local terms. So God Bhairav who inhabits Masan is referred to as Masan Bhairav. We can see a pulu, a mat with an image of Bhairav painted in it hung in the wall of Bhairav Temple in Nyatapola Square. During the day a goat is sacrificed in the square adjoining the temple. The pulu is then taken and carried around the main city festival route and later the pulu is once again hung on the wall for the whole year.

Pulukisi drinking water

Later in the evening, Pulu kisi representing Yerawat Elephant of Indra is carried around the city from Lakolachhen tole in search of Mu Patra. A group of people carry it and also rung the bell throughout the festival. People around the city gather around the festival route to watch and celebrate Jatra. It is also said that this Pulukisi must not meet Mu Patra who is also roaming around the city and hitting the Yama dya pole. If this happens then it is said that Pulukisi will kill Mu Patra. So people make sure this does not happen.

Differences from Indra Jatra in Kathmandu

There are few differences in Indra Jatra celebrated in Kathmandu and Bhaktapur. Kathmandu celebrates Kumari Jatra as a major event during this festival. But in Bhaktapur Kumari Jatra is not celebrated during this festival but worshipped during Mohani Nakha (Dashain). Kumari Jātrā is the chariot procession of the living goddess Kumari which is believed to began in the mid-18th century. Similarly, Kathmandu witness masked deities dances during Indra Jatra. In Bhaktapur, masked deities dance and performances are performed during Saparu also known as Gai Jatra. 

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